Bites Nearby: La Locanda del Cavallo

Every so often one discovers a gem right in their own backyard; in this case, a place that has existed for years but feels fresh and exciting. This week’s feature, La Locanda del Cavallo, is just such a place.

La Locanda del Cavallo, translated from Italian, means “the inn of Cavallo,” which is an apt name for this intimate hideaway. Calling it a restaurant, however, just doesn’t do it justice.

Cavallo’s is a multi-faceted and unique dining experience, inspired by the charm of Italian villas and the “old country.” It is located on South Delaware Drive in Williams Township, away from the hustle of downtown Easton. The building, which is surrounded by statues, gardens, and outdoor tables, overlooks the scenic Delaware River.

Inside, the space is deceptively large. Several dining rooms are set up throughout the labyrinthine walls of Cavallo’s. Tables, which are set for two to 14 people, are adorned with ornate place settings and fresh-flower centerpieces.

Owner and renowned chef Shirley Cavallo originally opened her restaurant 33 years ago as a tack shop, back when there was only a small cottage on the premises. Her original eatery served hamburgers, sandwiches and soups -- all made fresh.

Over the years, Cavallo and her family added to the cottage to create the manor that currently houses both the restaurant and an inn.

Everything—emphasis on everything— is made from scratch, from the sauces and pastas to the desserts. Even wedding cakes are handmade by Cavallo.

All ingredients are organic and many of the vegetables used in the kitchen are homegrown. Asparagus grows wild on the hill behind the house, and herbs are grown in pots on the outdoor deck.

“That’s an inspiration in itself; going into the garden, picking them myself," Cavallo said. "It gives everything a fresh flair.”

But there’s something one should know about dining at Cavallo’s: there is no menu. When someone calls for a reservation, Cavallo reviews options and cooks based on preferences.

“When people call, I go over everything with them,” she said. “They’ve heard about us from someone else, and I can’t count on them being told everything.”

Cavallo makes sure that allergens are avoided; in fact, to avoid such issues, she doesn’t use any nuts or nut oils in her cooking, unless specifically requested.

“I like to make everything special,” she said. “The most important thing is that it’s memorable. I want people to remember the experience.”

Experience is the word that best sums up Cavallo’s, which is open any time, as per reservations. Cavallo particularly enjoys events, whether they be birthdays, weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, or traveling groups.

Cavallo, whose own background is Austrian-Venetian, caters not only according to preference, but also ethnicity. She has no problem preparing French, German, Greek, or Polish dishes, varied as her culinary prowess is.

As she is wont to say, it’s all about accommodating.

Cavallo studied with chef Julie Dannenbaum in Philadelphia, and made many influential associations during her time with her. However, she attributes her love of cooking to her grandmother.

“When you’re a child, it’s the best time to learn, especially from a loving grandmother,” she said. “I definitely followed her by the apron strings.”

In addition to running the restaurant and inn alongside her son, Brondo, Cavallo also teaches cooking classes. She generally teaches groups of five or six at a time, and coaches primarily in stocks and sauces. She teaches each group how to cook with meats, seafood and vegetables; how to make wine sauces; and how to braise, poach and flambé.

“I basically teach the need-to-know,” Cavallo joked. “Everything you can’t just get out of a cookbook.”

The upper two floors of La Locanda del Cavallo holds five inn suites, decorated in an old-world style with many paintings and family portraits. Cavallo allows guests to stay any night, any time, so long as they dine there. Breakfast the following morning is included.

Guests come to Cavallo’s from as far as New York, Maryland and Connecticut. Some names that have passed through the restaurant include Paul Newman, Joanne Woodward and Joe Montana, among others.

Despite the seeming popularity, the Cavallos do little to no advertising.

“It’s more word-of-mouth,” said Brondo Cavallo. “It’s always been that way for us.”

Dining at La Locanda del Cavallo is by reservation only. The entire multiple-course dining experience is $120 per person, not including tax and gratuities. It is a BYOB establishment and guests are welcome to bring their own wines.

“We try to do the things that just aren’t done anymore,” Cavallo said. “It’s more Old World.”

For more information on La Locanda del Cavallo, visit www.experiencecavallos.com.